Who doesn’t love bringing a furniture piece back to life? When I first started blogging, furniture repurposing was actually how I got started. Refreshing a piece always brought me a sense of enjoyment, so I was super excited to take it back to my roots and transform this dresser.
Lately, I have been working on my master bedroom refresh and needed a dresser to complete the look. Luckily, while browsing online, I was able to find this incredible piece of furniture. I knew with a little love, it would be the perfect addition to my bedroom.
I am happy to walk you through the process of how I gave my dresser a refresh and hopefully it inspires you to dust off that old piece in your house!
First, things first, I had to gather all of the materials I needed to get this dresser looking great again.
Step 1: Furniture Prep
Once I had all of my materials gathered, it was time to prep the piece for stain. The first thing I did was remove all of the hardware from the furniture piece. I took off all of the drawer knobs and took off the little metal casters on the bottom.
It was evident that the dresser had some sort of top coat and stain on it, so I knew I wanted to strip the dresser completely down, so that the new stain could adhere well to the furniture piece. I first went in with my disc sander with 80-grit sandpaper to get the existing finish off.
I opted to use my disc sander because they are super powerful, they take the finish right off; you do want to make sure you are taking your time when sanding and not pressing down to hard, to prevent rings in your furniture, but the disc sander will get the job done.
There were a few trim pieces on my piece and some corners on the sides that I couldn’t get with my disc sander, so I used my Corner Cat Sander and Dremel MultiMax to get into those tight corners. I love using my Dremel because it comes with so many cool attachments to help with jobs like these.
Once I got all of the finish sanded off, I was amazed at how good the dresser looked with the natural wood, I almost wanted to leave it that way. I knew at this point that the project was going to turn out great.
After sanding it all down with 80-grit, I went back through and sanded it down with 220-grit sandpaper to smooth out the surface.
Step 2: The Staining Process
Now for the fun part; the staining process. It took me a while to decide which color I wanted to go with at first, and I almost went with weathered grey but decided that the Varathane Premium Dark Walnut would go better with my bedroom decor.
The best part about this wood stain is that it doesn’t require a wood conditioner; a step I normally do when building furniture. It also has a one hour dry time, which for me was appealing because I can’t get my furniture in the house fast enough once its dry.
Before staining. I made sure to blow off any sawdust from the sanding and wiped down the dresser with a damp rag and then let it sit to dry and I was ready to get to staining.
When you open your stain, you want to make sure to stir it up really well. This will ensure all of the particles are mixed well and you’re ready for application.
I opted to use a foam brush to apply the stain because it makes it really easy and less messy.
You will want to apply a nice coat on your piece. When I dipped the foam brush into the stain, I quickly noticed that it was really thick; I knew that the one coat coverage was going to do the job.
After applying the stain, I let it sit for around 5 min. The longer you let the stain sit, the richer the stain will be. After letting it sit, I used an old rag to wipe off the excess stain. This step is very important; you want to make sure you don’t leave all of the stain on the dresser. Or else your piece will be sticky and blotchy.
I went through in sections and applied the stain all over the dresser. I would stain one side and then wipe that side off and proceed to the next side. You want to make sure you apply your stain in sections, to ensure a nice even look.
Once I finished staining the outer part of the dresser, I knew I had went with the right color choice. Varathane Premium Dark Walnut stain was so rich.
After staining the outer part of the dresser, I almost went with the two-tone look because the stain looked so pretty with the natural wood. But decided against it and began staining the drawers. The foam brush really made the application easy with the trim on the doors.
After staining the dresser, I let it sit for an hour to dry and man was it looking good. I decided to put one top coat of polyurethane for protection and added on some golden knobs to give it a fresh look.
This Varathane Premium wood stain really brought my dresser to life and it looks amazing in its new little corner. I love how easy it was to transform this old piece and give it a fresh new look.
If you are thinking of transforming an old dresser, Varathane Premium Wood Stain can get the job done.
Why we wanted to stain or seal our fence
We had our fence replaced this spring—one of the best things we’ve done at this house! It was previously a dented, mossy, slatted chain link with mismatched cedar gate area. And it wasn’t tall enough or fully sight-obscuring once we had all the ivy and extra vegetation around it removed. We replaced it with a standard cedar fence. It’s common in this area but definitely shows age after lots of Pacific Northwest rain. We definitely wanted to stain or seal it somehow. After research, we learned it’s best to do this 6-8 weeks after installing the fence so the boards can dry out and cure.
Products and Applications
Research on products and application methods followed. The Home Depot carries #1 rated Olympic stains with both weather-ready application and long-lasting durability. We wanted a clear product to protect the fence from aging rather than add color, so we chose the Olympic Maximum Clear Exterior Waterproofing Sealant.
It protects against water damage, UV wear, scuffs, and mildew stains. It also provides 4 years of protection on fences & siding (3 years on decks). Our fence was a big investment so of course we want to take care of it and protect it from weather and aging. It gives me peace of mind that we are set for 4 years! Olympic also offers the #1 rated solid stain, Olympic Elite Solid, if you want to add some color to your fence or deck.
We’re just barely into full-on summer here in Oregon which means we have random rain here and there. The Olympic Maximum Clear Exterior Waterproofing Sealant allows for weather-ready application. So, you can clean and stain the same day even after rain. You only need 8 hours of dry weather after application. You can even apply in weather as cold as 35 degrees!
We also decided to use a professional scale paint sprayer. I’ll share with you the all of the prep materials and safety equipment we used below!
Supplies you’ll need
We had 190 linear feet of fence to stain. Our calculations suggested that we’d need about 6 gallons of sealant. We bought a 1-gallon container of Olympic Maximum Clear Waterproofing Sealant plus a 5-gallon container.
Because this was a large area to spray, we went for a large, versatile airless paint sprayer. This one is a great price for how much it can do! It comes with some essentials for cleaning the pieces and storing it. Just in case that wasn’t enough storage, we also bought extra Pump Armor for storing. Plus, we purchased mineral spirits for cleaning the oil-based sealant from the pump and the sprayer pieces.
We also bought some paint rollers to back-roll the stain after spraying. This is an essential step when painting walls or smooth surfaces with a paint sprayer. However, our fence absorbed the sealant really well and we actually didn’t end up using these at all. You might use the paint rollers if you’re sealing a smoother surface, or if your fence doesn’t absorb as much of the stain as ours did.
Fence before protection
Even after only 2-3 months of being exposed to the elements, you can see our fence was starting to look a little tired. There was some discoloration at the top and near the nails, and we had dirt splashes at the bottom which are harder to clean off bare wood.
Step 1: Clean the Fence
The first step is cleaning the fence. The pump sprayer is super easy to use, and the Olympic Premium Deck Cleaner product works really well.
You can see the fence after cleaning below. We did wait a day to apply the stain, but you don’t have to with this product if you don’t have time or are stuck between rain showers.
Step 2: Prepare Your Paint Sprayer
The main advantage to using a sprayer is that it’s way faster than other methods. It allows you to easily get the stain into nooks and crannies that would take additional time to do with a roller or brush. However, you do need to do extra prep work to learn how to set up and use the sprayer properly. You also need to wear more safety equipment because of the overspray. For the same reason, you also need to be cautious about covering any cars, plants, or outdoor furniture that you have close to the job so that they don’t get sprayed. This type of paint sprayer is also convenient to use and low-waste since you don’t pour paint into part of the sprayer.
Step 3: Apply the Sealant
After carefully reading the instructions to make sure we understood how to set up and prime the pump so the airless sprayer would work properly, we were ready to spray! We hooked up the sprayer with the sealant gallons and applied in a foot-wide section, side to side moving down. Some key tips for proper technique include: Always spray from the same 12-18” distance from the fence surface, holding the sprayer tip directly perpendicular to the fence (not angled) so that the stain goes on evenly. Work carefully and methodically in small vertical or horizontal sections (depending on which direction you have the spray tip set to). With the proper technique, a single person can put a smooth, even coat on a large fence in just a few hours.
Here you can see the difference; even though there’s no color, it adds a rich finished look to the previously really bare-looking cedar. It dries a little lighter.
You can see the clouds in the air as we sprayed—it is strong stuff and gets everywhere, so the paint suit is really necessary.
That’s it—it’s really a 3-step project! There is time associated with prep and cleanup of the paint sprayer in particular, but this went really fast for us. We were able to get it all sealed in one afternoon.
You can see a difference for sure. The sealed fence has a really nice, rich, natural look rather than the sort of pale, raw wood that feels unprotected. We are so happy with it!
We’ve added the fence, wood chips, garden, and grass all this year and are so happy with our backyard now. It’s great to have the fence protected so it’ll stay nice for years.
This is a fantastic project to do to protect your fence, deck, or siding. It’s absolutely DIY-able! We would definitely recommend the Olympic Maximum Clear Waterproofing Sealant .
The post Protecting Our Fence with Olympic Clear Waterproof Sealant appeared first on The Home Depot Blog.
Well, hey there neighbor! Jen Woodhouse here and I am so excited to share my DIY Dutch Door featuring the new Schlage Encode Smart Door Lock! Isn’t this Dutch door the most inviting thing ever? It makes me want to wear an apron and bake pies all day just so I can let them cool on the ledge! I mean, I don’t even own an apron, but now I’m going to have to get one! And guess what… this DIY Dutch Door is not a hard project, it’s surprisingly easy to do! Read on to see how I did it.
What is a Dutch Door?
A Dutch door is sometimes called a half-door or a stable door and basically, it’s a door that’s divided horizontally so that each part operates independently of each other. It can also be latched together so that it works like a traditional door. Dutch doors have been around since the 17th century and primarily served to let the fresh air and sunlight in, while keeping the farm animals that were usually milling about, out of the house. It’s such a charming old-world architectural detail. I love being able to watch my kiddos play in the yard and have my neighbors stop by to say hello – I just love it so much!
Buy vs. DIY
We recently built my detached workshop and I knew I wanted a Dutch door for it; however, store-bought, ready-made Dutch doors are ridiculously expensive. The ones I found online were around $1,500. No, thank you. I picked up a solid wood exterior door from The Home Depot for a little over $200 – just another reason why I love DIY!
A hollow core door doesn’t work as well for this project because when you cut it in half, you’ll have to fill that hollow space somehow. It’s still possible, but not ideal, especially for an exterior door, so if you can, try to use a solid door.
Standard doors typically have 3 hinges total, so if you’re converting an existing door to a Dutch door, you’ll need to add one more hinge so that both the top and bottom parts of the door are well-supported. Each part should have 2 hinges total.
My door didn’t have any hardware on it at all. It was a complete blank slate so I added all four hinges, as well as the doorknob and a barrel bolt. I used a router to rout a mortise for the hinges. I shared a video of this on my Instagram stories and saved it to my highlights, called “Dutch door” so you can check that out if you’d like. And I’d love for you to follow me on Instagram if you’re not already! I usually share sneak peeks of upcoming projects and behind the scenes content.
Determine Hardware Placement
I wanted a keyless smart lock for this door, so I was thrilled to partner with Schlage and try out their new Encode Smart Door Lock. The first thing I had to do was figure out the best placement for all of the hardware. Because this is an exterior door, I added a locking mechanism to both parts of the door for added security. I decided to put the Schlage smart lock deadbolt on the top part and a locking doorknob on the bottom. Once I figured out where the hardware would go, I could determine where to cut the door in half.
Cut the Door in Half
I laid the door down so I could measure, mark my line, and make the cut. Then I used a circular saw with a general purpose saw blade to make the cut, clamping a straight edge as my guide. Cutting my beautiful, brand new door was, by far, the most stressful and challenging part of this project.
I also wanted to add a ledge, so I had to make an additional cut. The ledge is ¾ of an inch thick, so I measured and made a second cut to allow space for the ledge. The ledge is a 1×4 board cut to match the width of the door. Then I used a jigsaw to cut a curve on each end. I also had to notch out a space so that the ledge would fit in the door jamb.
Okay…The hard part is done! Everyone can breathe easy now.
Cut Holes for the Door Locks
Now it’s time to get the door ready for hardware. If you’re using an existing door, of course, you’ll already have the door knob installed, so your job will be even easier! I used a door lock installation hole saw kit to cut the holes for the doorknob. This jig was super easy to use – the directions were very clear. You just clamp the jig in place, put the hole saw onto the drill and use the guide to bore the holes. Using this jig took the guesswork out of this part.
Next, we put the door back on its hinges so that we could install the deadbolt and doorknob. But first, let’s attach the ledge. I applied wood glue to the door, set the ledge on top, then pre-drilled the pilot holes. I attached the ledge with glue and screws, making sure to countersink the screw heads so that I could hide them with wood filler.
Install the Schlage Smart Lock
Now we’re ready to install the locks. I inserted the latch, traced the outline and used a chisel to carve out a mortise for the latch so that it’s able to sit flush with the edge. Then I screwed the latch on.
Now we have to figure out where the latch strikes on the door jamb so we can prepare the jamb to accept the deadbolt. Here’s a clever little trick: put a little glue on the deadbolt, then close the door, and turn the lock. The glue will create a “stamp” on the door jamb, which will tell you exactly where you need to bore the hole in the jamb! Pretty smart, right?
Then I drilled the hole in the door jamb and placed the strike plate. I traced the outline so that I could chisel out a mortise so that the strike plate sits flush as well.
The Schlage smart lock comes with a couple of longer, additional screws for added security, which I love. I screwed the strike plate onto the door jamb and gave the deadbolt a test run. I had to make some minor adjustments until everything fits just right. Then I just followed the directions on how to install and program the smart lock – it was pretty straightforward and the capabilities are really cool.
Okay, moving onto the bottom hardware… I did the same thing here: inserted the latch, mortised out the door and the door jamb, then screwed the doorknob on.
Finally, we’ve got one last piece of hardware to attach. This Dutch door barrel bolt will keep the top and bottom parts of the door secure. I figured out the placement, then just screwed it on! Super simple. Finally, we added some weather stripping to the door jamb and called it done!
Schlage Encode Smart Lock Features
The Schlage Camelot Encode Smart Door Lock with Alarm is a keyless deadbolt with built-in Wi-Fi and secure encryption that allows me to manage my smart lock remotely via the Schlage Home app on my smartphone. I can easily lock and unlock my Dutch door through the app as well as from the touchscreen. I can also program and store up to 100 access codes and schedule them to work on the days/times that I choose.
The smart lock also records a history of each operation, so I can quickly see who’s been coming and going at any given time or day. There’s also a built-in alarm on the lock that sounds in case of a security breach.
This smart lock makes my life so much easier because I don’t have to fumble around with keys! I can enjoy the peace of mind knowing that my workshop is well-protected.
And that’s it! The hardest part was cutting the door in half, right?! I am so happy about my DIY Dutch Door. Doing it myself saved me over a thousand dollars, and I was able to really customize the door for my space. I absolutely love the added flexibility and functionality of my workshop!
Now, then. Who wants pie?
The post DIY Dutch Door Tutorial with Schlage Smart Lock Install appeared first on The Home Depot Blog.
What the outdated kitchen looked like before!
I consider myself an avid DIY’er, but this is by far the biggest project I have ever tackled…and I did it by myself! We live in a 1990’s home in Las Vegas with honey oak cabinets in the kitchen and all the bathrooms. The rest of the house is updated, so the kitchen looked horrible! After a couple months of living here, I gathered some courage and decided to paint the honey oak kitchen cabinets white. The end result is incredible, and I am so happy I did it. In this blog, I am going to teach you everything you need to know about how to paint honey oak kitchen cabinets.
I go over the inspiration for this kitchen remodel on my blog, CollectivelyCasey.com, so you can see the look I was going for. I wanted a modern yet timeless look that would compliment the rest of the house–brushed nickel accents on a bright white canvas.
Home Depot is my go-to for all DIY projects, big or small, so the first thing I did was talk to the friendly Home Depot staff about the supplies and type of paint I should use on this project, in addition to a TON of research.
Every blog you read about how to paint honey oak cabinets will tell you that the prep work is the longest and most important step…and I am here to reiterate that!
- Remove all cabinet doors. Use painters tape to label each door with its corresponding cabinet. Remove the hardware, hinges, and screws, leave in a baggie and store in the corresponding cabinet.
- Tape everything. Tape off any walls, appliances, counters, baseboards, and floors that you don’t want painted.
- CLEAN! Use the tsp solution and a rag to carefully clean the door fronts and cabinet frames. Our cabinets have lots of grooves, and it took some extra elbow grease to make sure every inch was clean. Don’t forget the backs of the doors!
- Start sanding. Our cabinets were recently varnished, which meant I had an additional layer of shine to sand through. For this reason, I used liquid sander in addition to a sanding block to make sure I had no shiny residue left on the cabinets.
The next step is to start priming. Use a high quality oil based primer like Zinsser to ensure an even and well coated surface. I used a high density foam roller on the frames and the fronts, and a brush to get in all the grooves. The roller leaves a bit of texture, similar to the look of spray painted cabinets. Fair warning, oil based primers STINK so make sure to prime outside and consider using a ventilator mask.
- Do at least two coats of primer on all surfaces you plan to paint.
- Lightly sand in between each coat, to get rid of drips or uneven surfaces.
- I let each coat dry for 24 hours. This is longer than the recommended time on the primer can but I wanted to really let the primer set before adding more!
- Oil based primer is really difficult to wash, so just store your wet brush and roller in a gallon sized bag until you are ready to do the next coat.
You have done all the prep work, now it’s time to learn how to paint honey oak kitchen cabinets! I decided to use Behr’s Satin Enamel in the color Aspen Snow without any tint. I love how bright and white the cabinets turned out and am glad I went with it! Once again I used a high density foam roller for the frames and fronts and a paint brush for the grooves. The paint goes on very easily, and is great at self leveling.
- Use a different paint tray, foam roller, and brush than you used for priming. It’s good to start fresh!
- Lightly sand in between coats to make sure you have a smooth and even finish.
- Less is more! Apply paint in thin coats gradually rather than thick coats all at once. The end result looks better and it actually saves you time.
- Let paint dry completely before adding a new coat. Once again I chose to wait 24 hours between coats to make sure I let the paint fully set.
- If your cabinets have deep wood grain (and you don’t want to use grain filler) use the paint brush to really fill in the grooves. Since our cabinets are old, it took a lot of paint to fill the grain but it worked and looks great.
- Be extra careful with your newly painted cabinets for the first 30 days. This is how long it takes for the paint to fully cure and harden. If you see any chipping, fix it right away!
The cabinets and drawers didn’t have hardware on them when we started, so I decided to add some! I love the look of these knobs and cup pulls from the Home Depot Amerock line, and went with a brushed nickel finish to match the stainless steel appliances. The old hinges were 20+ years old and a faded bronze, so I replaced them with beautiful satin nickel. They come in bulk packages which are great for projects like this!
TIP: I tried hanging the cabinets up by myself, but the new hinges were a slightly different size than the old ones. I definitely recommend getting another set of hands to help rehang the cabinets!
The countertops in here are an old, almond colored tile and clash with the new bright white kitchen cabinets. Demolishing tile is a HUGE project that I wasn’t comfortable tackling, so instead I turned to my favorite renter’s hack, contact paper! With 6 rolls of contact paper, I completely transformed the look of this kitchen for under $75.
TIP: This specific contact paper is thick and sticky. This is great for durability and wear but it makes it difficult to apply. I suggest having at least two people to apply it, and use a credit card to smooth out air bubbles and wrinkles as they occur.
THINGS TO KNOW: I do not place hot pans directly on the counters anymore because I’m not sure how that would affect the adhesive. The contact paper has held up extremely well even around the sink, and cleans easily with chemical free all purpose cleaner. The tile grout lines are visible under the contact paper, but they are very light. The overall aesthetic improvement far outweighs any side effects for me!
This is a rental home and we got permission to paint from our landlords, but they didn’t want us to install anything permanent on the counters or walls. I LOVE removable wallpaper and The Home Depot has a great selection! I found this shiplap style removable wallpaper and decided to turn it into a faux backsplash. It took some effort to line up (and it isn’t perfect!) but I love what it added to the entire space! Plus it only took one roll to do our whole kitchen!
The previous sink faucet was a small, builder’s grade, shiny chrome faucet. I knew I wanted to replace it with a nice pull down faucet, and Home Depot had so many options to choose from. After reading lots of reviews, I went with the Leland Single-Handle Pull-Down Sprayer by Delta! It wasn’t too difficult to install, but I do recommend this as a two person job as well. I was surprised at how much of an impact a new faucet made on the overall kitchen! It looks so much better with the update!
I tend to be a whirlwind DIY’er, but I really took my time with this project! I stay home with my two toddlers and tackled this project alone at night, so it took me about one month from start to finish! If you wanted to, you could absolutely knock this out in a long weekend with helping hands.
I’m so happy with the end result of this project, and I can’t believe the before pictures! We lived with the old kitchen for four months and I can’t remember what it looked like unless I see an old picture. It is truly amazing what some paint, removable wallpaper, contact paper and hardware can do for a space!
The grand total of this kitchen renovation comes to $561.13. I hope this blog on how to paint honey oak kitchen cabinets is helpful to anyone wondering how to update their kitchen on a budget. If you have any questions or want to see more pictures, come say hi at CollectivelyCasey.com or on Instagram via @CaseyEAnderson. Big thank you to The Home Depot for sponsoring this project and giving us the rental kitchen of our dreams!